Saturday 18 February 2012

Delete History - Jeremy Scott a/w 2012

At the end of his New York show, Jeremy Scott himself took to the catwalk in a Bart Simpson jumper and tartan kilt/trouser hybrid.

But despite the cartoon references, kitsch emoticons and Rainbow Brite hair, the designer proved he could be taken seriously; unveiling a trademark playful collection that also made a paradoxical statement about growing up.



It was as 90s as it gets. His vibrant palette, metallic swirling denims and camp graphics conjured up the old Michael Alig 'club kid' phenomenon. However, this was less seedy; it was something that could slide easily into a modern New York underground scene - one that may even be too ironic for the hipsters.

The dated regalia seemed specific to that era, but revealed itself as a window into the past; soaking up 70s disco colours and an 80's sportswear gesture. Yet it was also a nod to today's pop-culture, that we're blind to now, but will shape our future. Scott demonstrated this by making his way through the decade, embracing the dawn of the internet generation. A qwerty keyboard dress, bold emoticons and a computer desktop printed tracksuit led us through twenty years of developing technology, into an age where we're one click away from everything.

A personal highlight was Charlotte Free in a perspex Lisa Frank sticker bodice and Rainbow Brite star print flares. It illustrated, not only the technical dexterity that Jeremy Scott is learning to acquire, but also the maturity, restraint and ingenuity that he so cleverly refines in a garment that seems energetic but is actually quite simple with its minimalist shape.

Just because you can't wear it, doesn't mean you can't like it - At least that's my attitude when it comes to the more 'spirited' designers like Jeremy Scott, Betsey Johnson and Meadham Kirchoff. After all, when stripped bare, it's the same fantastical zest that permeates through Prada, Givenchy, and McQueen; excepts it's honed, more sophisticated and Vogue likes it, so we can like it too.

"We can never really delete history, be it on Facebook where people complain that their photos are never really erased once they're put up, to fashion, where you can have flares co-exist with bondage pants."  Jeremy Scott








Jeremy Scott with Leigh Lezark and Sky Ferreira

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