Gucci set a dark, foreboding tone on the first day of Milan fashion week. Using chiaroscuro lighting, Frida Giannini submerged her models in the shadows only to let us them watch appear through panels of light as haunting Renaissance sirens.
The show oozed dark glamour as the first of the models entered head to toe in black. Military accents, stiff leathers and thick velvet heightened an already malevolent atmosphere, but this soon relaxed into something more romantic, more sensual - more Gucci.
The models walked with force but fluid billowing fabric spoke of something softer. Their lips were painted plum and hair was gently tousled to make the girls seem ethereal and nymph-like. This sensuality was complemented by inky jewel tones of blood red, olive and indigo on streams of chiffon and silk, flowing with every step.
Show-stopping, Oscar worthy, gowns brought the collection to a climax. First there were luxurious silk ruffles and sumptuous velvets, then dresses cut to the navel, nipped at the waist and slit to the thigh, opening with each gallant stride. This intensified to a pinnacle of gowns made from sheer wrinkled tulle, with crystal flower embroidery barely grazing the breasts. So light and effervescent the dresses were worn like a shadowy second skin.
"This is modern-day romanticism. With subtle tones of provocative intellect" Frida Giannini
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