Prabal Gurung has made the perfect seasonal transition. His spring/summer collection of breezing chiffon and swirling sky blue patterns was eclipsed naturally for winter by something darker, kind of impending, almost apocalyptic.
The opening was heavy, dramatic, completely in black and tailored so sharply it seemed cruel and cold. Gurung was forensic in his eye for detail when it came to the precise cut and slimline silhouette made up of leather, silk and dense wool.
There was looming tension achieved through black sheer cut-outs, patent belts and oil-spill panels teamed with either blue eye make-up or sunglasses for a sci-fi edge. And the designer gradually became more forceful with this sense of menace, introducing insect accessories and inky cow skull prints inspired by Georgia O'Keefe.
Gurung sustained the heaven and hell theme by moving through the darkness into ambrosial whites and celestial golds. His grasp relented slightly with an easier fit that billowed with ruffles, organza and feathers.
As the collection graduated into evening-wear, there was redemption through resplendent beading and intricate embroidery. The white finale dress worn by Candice Swanepoel was atmospheric but obscured by an ice-queen hostility. It was a far cry from the show's initial threat but wasn't unidentifiable; it was all born of the same idea and part of the same ominous journey.
No comments:
Post a Comment