I know that Pheobe Philo is la femme du moment, picking up designer of the year at the british fashion awards, but i have been mostly unconvinced by her work for celine. I get how she has revamped the label to appeal to the masses but i dont like wearable fashion; which Celine very much is.
However, pre-fall has made me reconsider my feelings on Philo. For this collection we were brought to 1950s underground London with dogtooth, tartan, winklepickers and patchwork tweed which the designer calls “modern urban camouflage”
I was drawn to the matching yet miss matching patterns, for example the tartan on tartan suit below. I also liked the variety of jackets and how they all provided a powerful tone in an individual way. However, most interesting is the intricate detail applied to the fit of the garments. When Pheobe Philo picked up her bfa award she wore a strapless jumpsuit (featured in this collection) which on closer inspection had a built in corset which provides a very flattering silhouette. This sort of attention to detail in each piece, portrays that Philo is aware of the greatest female desire- to look damn good in clothes.
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