Tuesday, 22 February 2011

Mary, Mary quite contrary....

How does your garden grow?






Last season was hyperrrealist heaven but perhaps creating unsurpassable expectations for a/w 2011? Perhaps NOT. Expections met, exceeded and excelled out of this world towards a galaxy inhabited by Coco, McQueen and Yves. Mary Katrantzou IS new genius. Her digital printing and trompe l'oeil effects represent a new innovative fashion era wherein she in the pioneer.


Diana Vreeland, once famously said, when redesigning her apartment "I want this place to look like a garden, but a garden in hell" Katrantzou seemingly absorbed this idea and poured it into this collection. The regal air of copious opulence moved with the peplum structure but the deep daunting black propelled us unwillingly to the gates of hell.


The 3 dimensional architecture was revived for a/w 2011, with the lampshade skirts, structural shoulders and protruding cornered hips, but it was much less rigid and even lounging at times to follow the line of a tranquil garden party. There was versatility in abundance with the introduction of seperates; dresses, leggings, trousers, jackets and even cascading gowns.


The prints gloriously elevated me straight back to heaven. The intricacies were unbelievable. LITERALLY. the detail was utterly implausable. On lurex, jacquard, cashmere, satin, velvet; "I gave the knitters in Italy a nightmare," she said. "They had to re-set the machines for every single line." But the nightmare had celestial payoff. They were illustriously dynastic. You could imagine walking through the stately garden of  an old uninhabited Chinese palace; the majestics were in place but isolation was seizing the palatial grandiose.


"Print is pushed above and beyond where we have seen it go before, clashing and contrasting, across garments, overwhelming the viewer, but never the wearer." Mary Katrantzou has an inherent ability exclusive to her; this skill empowers her to create a print that will engorge not only a garment, but our minds, suffocating it like poison ivy. It was just so satisfying to see an a/w collection that flows rhythmically in the same vein as back-catalogue. Mark my words, Mary Katrantzou IS NEW GENIUS 






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