Time is never time at all - Jil Sander A/W 2012

A melancholy 1990s playlist featuring Smashing Pumpkins' Tonight, tonight, called Raf Simons to the catwalk at the end of his show. The emotional designer was met with a standing ovation and applause from the bellowing crowd, whose cheers dragged him back for an encore; a rare moment in fashion.

After 7 years at the helm of Jil Sander, the Belgian designer unveiled a farewell collection that paid homage to his time at the label. Typically demure, innovative yet minimal; it was Simons' swansong, saying  'goodbye, and no hard feelings'.

Perspex plinths, filled with semi-wilting bunches of flowers, surrounded the white catwalk. It was a subtle nod to Simons' departure and to the collections' warm-hearted yet sombre theme; family life, intimate relationships and moving in and out of love.

The models walked elegantly with timeless Grace Kelly styled hair and make-up. The first entered in long cashmere coats colour blocked with cream, sugar pink and camel; it was contrasting, but tastefully so. The double-faced coats were collarless and fastened only by the model's hands like a woman who, as decribed by Hamish Bowles, spends an amorous morning with her husband and then slips on a coat to leave the kids at school. 

It read like a greatest hits collection abundant with signature ballooning floorlength skirts and an oversized column shaped, almost prepubescent silhouette. But dainty, romantic dresses, abundant with blush tones and sweetheart necklines, were affectionate and unfamiliar; if this is Simons cut off at his prime, Dior would be lucky to bag him.

Wide leg jumpsuits with open backs and keyhole detail had a sleek new-fashioned poise but vintage Hollywood accents that would help them endure. These introduced a cavalcade of gowns, inherent with that same perennial quality that could get them lost between decades. Simons swapped between avant-garde and staple silhouettes like delicate silk slips in pink and silver that peeked underneath coats.

The sharp yet simple collection warranted its ovation and subsequent encore whilst the expert proficiency laced through these designs did nothing but fuel rumours of a move to the Parisian couture chambers. Raf said nothing; he took his bow, looked across the crowd with tearfilled eyes and left shyly.