Sunday 11 September 2011

Run with it - Helmut lang - s/s 2012

No-one looks good after the gym, but Helmut Lang is willing to challenge the notion.



Greased down and with sweat laden torsos (simulated i hope), the models just sauntered with aggression down the catwalk, oozing sex appeal from their unkempt hair to their towering heels. Have Nicole and Michael Colovos being running laps since 2006?

Well, there were no theatrics upon their return to runway. No Chanel scale sets. No Prada concepts. Instead the husband and wife duo played their stagecraft through the clothes, aiming to satisfy that good design can conquer all.  Undeviating from their urban lure, the Colovoses teased wearable sports-wear through an even more wearable monochrome palette. This was, however, negotiating with grunge asymmetry, low slung waists and spaghetti-straps that webbed the models from every direction. Barely there inhibitions were vanquished under defiant flashes of flesh that couldn't even be restrained by loose draping and androgynous low hem-lines. T-shirts and cropped jackets became laced together with string and impressed by sweeping angular panels that conflicted with one another to appear nonchalant but still coordinated.

Intense canary yellow and a brief intermission of charcoal print, further paved the way for a rebellious new brand directive. It might have been a Helmut Lang hand-written signature, but on closer examination the Colovoses have unfolded the aesthetic to correspond with the evolution of street-wear, in a high-fashion disguise.

watch the full show here.




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